I used the log chain method in LA, but not here. It works great in mud, sand & small gravel. Our AR lakes, though, tend to be stumpy and there's often a lot of brush piles, rocks, all sorts of things to claim the chain. All it takes is to let it crawl through a V-shaped rock or stump that won't turn it loose.
I have two different size drift socks. One won't do it unless using the trolling motor with one tied to the stern. For strictly drifting (no trolling) the socks normally go out at each end of the boat, in my case a 24" at the bow, an 18" at the stern. The idea is since the bow is lighter wind will catch it and take it downwind easier. If the wind switches I can pull one in closer to keep the boat aimed right. With one sock the boat ends up bow or stern downwind, even if tied to mid-deck. It's a chore, needing two people to manage that, so I don't use them much. If you decide to use them be sure to select a pair of sock sizes matched to the boat. A drift sock 18-30" diameter (opened) will handle up to a 20' boat, varying by make and style of sock.
Without a buddy helping out it's tough to keep a bass out of the sock ropes, so keep that in mind. His job is to lift a line up out of the water to let you move under it if the bass takes off around the bow (or stern).
Now if you were to want to follow a weedline in high wind, use the larger sock tied at the stern to slow the boat, and troll to steer with no sock at the bow.
Don't do like I've done ONCE, taking off without pulling the socks in.
The cleat comes off before the ski rope breaks.
Jim
