The Swim bait post that was in the General Discusion does cover the topic well and you should read that before reading this, so I don't need to cover it again.
The big presentation technique to keep in mind is swim baits and cranks baits are different. Crank baits by design are intended to produce a quick reaction bite from active bass. Cranks make a lot of noise with there hooks swinging and rattles is some lures, plus the finish is flashy to further intice the bass to make a quick bite at the fleeing bait fish or crawdad. Your crank bait retrieve should be erratic to give the bass little time to think about the lure, just react to it and get hooked by one of the several hook points flying around.
Swim baits are designed to look like a real bait fish an easy target. Swim baits are realistic in appearance with life like silhouette and coloring and usually have one hook or added stinger hooks. Some hard jointed swim baits may have multiple treble hooks, like a musky lure and this type of swim bait is really a big crank bait, fished slower.
The swim bait presentation is usually a slow steady retrieve with occasion change of direction and speed to give the bass a chance to commit to eating the lure rather than striking at it. Unlike a crank bait, you want the bass to engulf the lure and hold onto to it like a plastic worm. The best way to get the bass to commit to eating the lure is convincing the bass that this is a real bait fish. If the bass does not fully commit to eating the lure, it may nip at it or bump it to check out this possible bait fish and then may lose interest in it. To make the bass eat the lure after a casual bump, the trick is to make the bait fish try to escape by swimming faster and if possible toward the surface. I have had bass grab my swim bait 3 feet from the rod tip, like a musky!
Because most soft swim baits are manufactured with one hook or one hook hanger, some experts will add stinger hooks to the larger swim baits. Please keep in mind that this may make the lure illegal for IGFA records. I use Sevenstrand Sevalon 40# coated wire and A3 size crimp sleeves to add a stinger hook. If the stinger hook is attached to the top hook and goes through the swim bait to the belly or tail area, you can make a hole through the lure using a Strike Master 1/16 diameter bait threader. The other trick that I will sometimes do is add high lights to the fin edges with pearl worm paint available from Barlows Tackle. Always lubricate soft plastic swim baits with fish attractant to help the lure slip in the basses mouth when you set the hook. I put mine in a plastic bag, add attractant like Hot Sauce, and shake it.
Keep your retrieves slow and slightly up hill when possible by casting out, letting the lure sink and retrieve back and if you feel a bump, crank faster. Once the bass has grabbed the lure, give the bass time to turn with the lure before setting the hook, unless it freight trains it. Good luck, these are great lures for big bass.
Ps; Bill Siemantel's Big Bass Zone is a good book for swimbait fisherman to read, just apply what you need.
Note: The Megabiat LA Slider is available, see http;//www.tackletuor.com/megablaslider.html These are a good product sold with separate weighted hooks the "slide" into the soft plastic body, they are inexpensive and work well at various speeds. and come in 5", 6" & 71/2" sizes. They are a good starter lure.