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hi steel, try this one out , http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_387____SearchResults
it works great for me so far, i have it mounted to the side right next to me in the canoe, the seemed like no other place to put it as i need the transducer up before i get to shallow, which is before we get in and out of the boat, i have trolled full speed and it does not move(with trolling motor) i did however tight`n it to much the first time out and i couldn't for the life of me loosen it.... the set up is some what easy and can mount in several ways.... also if you don't tie or hide the wires perinatal you could take the finder in any boat, like rentals boats or your buddies( turn the back of the boat in to a better place to be!)....i didn't think of that when i ran my wires under the flooring? dang it!...i also mounted a 90* bracket on the out side of the boat for the trnsdcr bracket to clamp to it.... good luck let us know how it goes....



or if this makes the trolling motor work better!
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_1212____SearchResults

hope it helps

hey guys i found a great battery for the fish finders ... the ones i have are free so nothing could be better....lol
my buddy works for a small airport, he replaces the back up batteries in small planes every 2 years, these batts. are not used every day they are there to run the gauges when the main power fails in the plane so they just sit mainly unused just recharged while in use... they are 2 1/2 "s by 6"s and look like a powerwheels battery... they have easy slipp on connections on top with the right crimp on conection too and they can be wired in secsetion too....
i suggest anyone go by there local small air port to see if they have a room field with them...maybe
they are light weight and a must for small boats! i use the optima to troll and the small air plane battery to run the finder it's awsome so far!



aw some read JIM! i read half of that link, but i need more memory, not for the computer for the brain....lol
I actually need more time on the water!
 

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This is a possibility Billy:

A feature that the X-15 makes available is the Transmit and Print Alternate which, when activated, causes the stylus to print every other revolution instead of every
revolution. This accomplishes three things:
1. Since the stylus only prints every other revolution, the recorded information is not squeezed together into a very small area. This allows better records at slower paper
speeds. Also, the scale numbers are spread out more, so they are more legible.
2. Prevents the possibility of "wrap around". This is the undesirable occurrence of the second or third bottom echo printed on the paper at the top or middle of the page.

You're likely seeing that "wrap around" they are referring to.

Hope that helps

Morgan
 

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Im sorry, it was an x15mt, not the old paper graph.It was as if the 2nd echo( for hard bottoms)was up higer. If the bottom is say, 30 feet, 2nd echo is around 60 feet, This fantom echo would show up at 15 feet. If I turned the unit off then back on it would go away for a bit. Or if I turned down the sen. I think i was just running the sensitivity to high. Don't remember but I think it was mostly in auto mode.
 

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You need to go to manual mod to set the sensitivity for the depth you are metering. The Auto mod automatically self adjusts the sensitivity for the depth to factory levels. You can't adjust the sensitivity too high without creating a lot of background noise on the screen, a little noise is about the maximum setting you should need.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Running dual frequency or just the 200 kHz? If that you are only shooting 500 watts, so sounding just 30 feet of lake ought not be a problem with sensitivity compared to trying to sound way too much bottom on the screen. You must have had half the screen showing water, the lower half 'earth'. The screen ought to be mostly water with maybe at most 10-15' of bottom depth unless you are over rough terrain and highly variable bottom contours requiring a wider range of bottom depth. Use the manual DEPTH RANGE feature instead of automatic depth range. For instance, if you are mostly over 30' of water depth, set the range for 0 to 40'. That way the software won't try to paint something on bottom that isn't there. That holds most of the screen open for water depth, showing just enough bottom to know how it is laid out.

Next, make adjustments as necessary to show some GRAYLINE with at least two shades of gray on bottom showing hard bottom materials compared to soft bottoms. Along the way you should be getting sensitivity set right to reduce clutter yet show some fish arches if going slow enough.

Jim
 
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