[BrittSC]

I have a Minn kota 80 lb maxxum. It came new on my 06 skeeter. I have had it about a year now. The past few weeks it has began not to work. It will work for a few hours, then out of know where it won't work. I jiggle wires, do what every I can think of and nothing. Then all of sudden it will begin working again??? When this happens it is dead in both modes, coninuous and intermitant. When in the momentary sp? mode using the toe switch and it goes dead, I can hear a clicking sound in the foot control when I accuate the toe switch, yet the motor doesn't come on?? Any Ideas, I'm going to take it in Monday, I'm sure they will want to keep it a few days, not sure I can part with it right now, also not sure it will reproduce for them in the time they have it. Wanting to know if any of you guys had this problem or know what it is??

Thanks,
Britt

 

[KeithsCatch]

Britt, more then likely it is the relay switch in the foot pedal. I had a similar problewm with my 74lb thrust Maxxum.

 

[StayNCharge]

I would have them replace the circuit breaker for the batteries as well. It is a auto reset circuit breaker and it will reset itself once it cools down. I would also take the wires off the trolling batteries and just scuff them up a little and clean them, That could be the reason it is getting hot and tripping the breaker. Good luck. :tbh_flag:

 

[Ouachita]

Yes to all the above. It's a really good idea to carry onboard a spare switch in the foot pedal, something that gets a lot of corrosion and simple wear and tear. Replace it anually if in competition fishing. The snapping is electricity arcing inside the switch, meaning it's worn. When the anode finds a working strip of copper it begins working. No big deal fixing on the water if you have the part.

Jim

 

[BrittSC]

What exactly is the switch? The Cont off Mon switch on the side of the pedal?

 

[Topwater]

Not sure if this will help, but on my Minnkota 80 US, I would be trolling along and then press, press on the button and nothing...after a few minutes of coasting along and dangerously heading to unknown parts of the structure or cover...ooops there it goes...It happens a few times like this over several weeks. I take it in and they replace the brushes and something else (sorry don't remember). Seems there was some sort of known problem that dead spots would develop.

Perry

 

[Ouachita]

On the inside of most switches is a copper winding on a card. A pickup tab slides across the wires/bars, selecting a different resistance that cuts power to the motor. You probably have a favorite spot for a certain speed, so the tab sits there burning the wire its on. The metal then corrodes and glazes over. In the old models we had buttons on a round card that could be filed down to fresh copper. If you try that on the new setup you'll probably void the warranty, as the metal is very thin. I recommend using all speeds frequently all day to keep the copper surface scratched up.

If your motor is out of warranty try lightly sanding the copper with a very fine sand cloth, and be sure to remove every bit of the dust, as that is metal dust and it will short the windings.

Jim

 

[178bee]

Mine did the same thing and it was the plug on the boat side.

 

[Ouachita]

That's a good point, the plug. They get a lot of wear and corrode, both the pins and wires behind the pins. I've seen very few cables get a broken wire at the male plug, but those were serious problems that were hard to find. Moving parts are by far the most likely to break down, then in descending order battery problems, then any connections you yank on too often, like unplugging the trolling motor. As a side note I helped a boater at the ramp that had a trolling head on fire. It got so hot the solder melted behind the cable connection in the head, so the hot wire dropped down and ended the heating, but I had to squirt it with a fire extinguisher. His was dead :crossbone: He didn't have a fuse anywhere on the trolling system, either!

Jim

 

[178bee]

Minn Kota used to say in their owners manuals to unplug the trolling motor while your batteries charged and i did and thats what started the problem i now just leave it plugged in.

 

[triton03820]

I have a maxxum pro 101/US I remember getting a letter in the mail about certain serial numbered ones being recalled well mine quite yesterday and still won't go sent Minn Kota a note and will do all the things you guys mentioned above and see then what happens

 

[BrittSC]

Mine ended up being a bad armature sp?? It was replaced under warranty and no problems since. It's kind of funny how useless/dangerous a bass boat is without a trolling motor.


Britt

 

[redranger188]

It's kind of funny had useless/dangerous a bass boat is without a trolling motor.

I agree... Why do guys spend the most money they can to max the big motor out to boat recommendations and add jack plate better prop etc.. Then only put a tolling motor on the boat that is half the max? There is really not that big of a difference in cost from a 70 to a 110lb motor. Besides most of the time if not all the time the line is in the water at the same time the trolling motor is. So if we are fishermen then lets upgrade and get the best fishing motor and what we can afford on a big motor.

I asked myself the same question and upgraded to a 36v motor and WOW what a big difference...

 

[joecr]

a little bit of corrosion sounds like to me, could be in the relay on the contacts or inside the switch on the contacts...it dont take much to knock you out.

 

[21ssextreme]

My 80# does the same thing, touch the pedal and get nothing. I flip both switches on the motor, unplug and plug back in and still nothing. I lift the motor, lay it on the deck then put it back down in the water and it works.

 

[BrittSC]

Pull the prop and make sure no fishing line has gotten under there, wrapped around the shaft, and caused a leak in to the motor. That wasn't my problem, but my armature sp?? was the problem, usually caused by water.

Britt