Flippin came along to replace outlawed Doodling. A very effective bassing rig was a 10' long cane pole with a short piece of string tied to the pole tip, then down the length of the pole in case the pole broke. BASS began restricting rod lengths to less than 8' until it was impractical to "doodle". The work-around was "flippin".
A big difference between flippin and pitchin is when flippin the reel spool remains still, no line playing off it. Line is taken off beforehand, however much you can handle off the rod tip and extra held to your side. When pitchin the reel spool is best set for a super free spool to allow effortless playout of line. If you tried to cast with the reel set that way it would be a guaranteed incredible birdsnest. Good pitchin requires a good reel (talking baitcaster today) that has a very free spool. When looking for a good pitchin reel I choose one that when empty of line and set free-spool, a flick of the spool gets it spinning for at least a minute. A Pflueger President can do that. An Ambassador 5000 can't.
When pitchin the lure is held in free hand and sort of sling-shot usiong both tension in bent rod and a slight swinging motion, of which there are many styles. In all styles thumb control is VITAL. When flippin in general the lure is just held as low to the water as possible, spool locked and ready for reeling, then gently swinging the lure to target while letting out any extra line your free hand is pinching (peeled off the reel). When pitchin the lure shuld keep a low trajectory, 2-3 feet above water, and make a quiet entry. When flippin the lure is kept inches above water and makes a totally silent entry with practically no surface disturbance. Effective flippin to 15', 30' for pitchin. Beyond that you are casting for a much noisier lure entry.
When flippin I prefer the extra pinched line, total about 5-6', held between reel and first rod guide, to add control to the lure placement, and to feel instant light bites so common when flipping close cover. A lure sort of climbs into the water like a bug sneaking in, and if seen by a bass, it's nailed on that first fall. But if it's inhaled and the bass sits there, I need that line in my fingers to feel that. When I'm ready to set the hook, I turn loose of that free line, letting the lure get swallowed easier, then snap the rod tip, which straightens the loose line I just dropped, and all in the same motion hoping to boat the fish right then, no fight, all in one motion if possible. It's a cross his eyes thing for me using 65# braid and a XHeavy rod with XFast action. Compare that to maybe a MHeavy power M action pitchin rod. Big difference. The heavy rod won't load up enough energy to propel the lure when pitchin. It's more like a long broomstick.
Some folks just let the lure dangle to the water, then backswing it, then reaching it as far out as the long rod and that rod tip to lure line length will allow. If bass will bite that close in then great. If the water is dirty enough, that'll work. I just like having the option of that extra 6' available in case I see a better target a little farther out, as so often happens. By that I mean seeing a really fishy little spot about 6" square, then about 3 feet farther out there's a big swirl around a stob. In that instant I would want to adjust in that instant to let a little more line out as I swing for that better target. But if all I have is 5' off the rod tip and rod 7' long, I can only reach the first intended target 12' away without moving the boat. So having that extra pinched line totalling 5' I can possibly go ahead and reach that surprise target up to 5' farther out.
In summary what are some options for that pinched line held out to my side, line between reel and first rod guide? I can hang onto it at all times in lure placement to attain a stealth landing with no noise. I can hang onto it all the way through flippin to retain maximum feeling contact with the lure. I can let the line down toward the rod as I lay the lure out, feeling the lure into a soft landing, supplying exactly the length of line needed to get on target. I can snap the line to the rod the instant the line from rod tip to lure is straightened and lure is a max height falling to the water, the snapping line giving the lure an erratic landing. I can flip from under a tree limb that only allows say 3' of line from rod tip to lure. Distance to target is had according to how much side line I hold out. I'd have to do more actual flipping of the rod tip to get the lure moving, then release the side line.
Jim